Contact Us

A.B.A.T.E. of Alaska


Valley ABATE is located in the south-central Alaska
Matanuska Susitna River Valley.

Click here to email Valley ABATE

or contact us via US Mail:

Valley ABATE
P.O. Box 1224
Palmer, AK 99645



















The following resources and links are provided as a courtesy.
We cannot vouch for all of the products and/or business represented by these links.

"General Motorcycle Maintenance

Modern bikes require less maintenance than they did in the 60's and 70's but they still need a lot more maintence than a car. This higher reliability also means that there are a whole bunch of motorcyclists out there who haven't a clue how to work on their bikes or what really needs to be done to ensure reliability.

Motorcyclists should be able to do at least baisic maintenance on their bikes.

The more care and maintenance you give a bike the longer it will last. Preforming general maintenance on your motorcycle will also help you spot problems before they happen.


Tip: Check your fuel filter on a regular basis and replace every 2 years.

Fuel is quite an often overlooked as a form of preventative maintenance on a motorcycle.

Check the fuel filter (if you have one) to make sure it is not clogged and looks clean and clear. Replace fuel filters every 2 years.

Check the fuel lines for weather damage and cracking, replace immediately if any is found.

Generally untreated gas only lasts (is good for) 6 months. After this time the gas starts to break down. Dispose of untreated gas older than 6 months rather than risk running it. Treated gas can last up to 2 years.

Remember when parking your motorcycle for any length of time to turn the petcock (fuel tap) to the off position. This prevents any fuel potentially leaking out and flooding the carbs or the engine.


The class of vehicle called motorcycle is comprised of two orders: off-road and on-road.

There’s a lot of overlap between the two main categories, and within them there are, as we shall see, innumerable families, species and subspecies. This is far from an exhaustive list. It could have included speedway, utility, hill climb, flat track, and a dozen others. Frankly, there isn’t time here.

Our main interest in this course is with on-road varieties, but a word or two is needed about the taxonomy of the whole class to place the motorcycle in its proper context.


Often lumped together under the catch-all title of ‘dirt bikes’; off-road motorcycles have features enabling them to traverse surfaces other than pavement. They are relatively tall, giving them ample ground clearance for negotiating obstacles and uneven terrain. They have generous suspension travel for the same reasons. Their tires have deep, exaggerated tread patterns for grip on loose surfaces. Off-road motorcycles tend to have lower gearing, enabling them to climb steep slopes but reducing their top speed on roadways.


Within this category are ‘trail bikes’, which are small, simple motorcycles intended for non-competitive, light duty. Portable and inexpensive, the smallest examples, or ‘minibikes’ may be little more than a lawnmower engine attached to a homemade frame. For many people this is their first experience of motorized two-wheel travel. Lots of fun and relatively safe for small children and beginners, they are not risk-free. Care and close supervision is an absolute necessity, especially when starting out. Things like exposed chains and sprockets are a serious hazard to small sleep temecula hands and feet, and protective gear is required even for tiny machines with a top speed of less than 30kph.


Road or street bikes come in a huge variety of styles and Dental Assistant Connecticut sizes. There are some major categories, but of course not all machines fall neatly into any of them, and within those categories there exist an almost endless number of subgroups.


A sportbike places the rider in a procumbent (forward-leaning or reaching) position, making it easier to hang on against the windblast of racing speeds, while putting more weight over the front wheel for traction. The dental assistant detroit seat of a sportbike is firmer than a cruiser’s or touring bike’s, sometimes even hard, and instead of being dished or concave to secure the rider in position, it will be rounded dentist oceanside or convex, enabling the rider to slide from side to side with ease when cornering. The footrests and foot controls are high and farther back, providing lots of cornering clearance and a functional platform for the rider to weight and un-weight.

While these dental implants peoria ergonomics undoubtedly work on the racetrack, many motorcyclists find them uncomfortable on the road, especially for long trips. The forward-leaning position can be hard on shoulders and wrists, especially for a shorter rider who has to reach across the tank for the bars. These riders will also be forced to tilt their heads back just to look up the road, giving them, literally, a pain in the neck. Riders of all podiatrist grand central sizes may complain of a sensation like a knife between the shoulder blades after a few hours – or less – leaned forward and reaching for the bars.

Taller riders complain that the high footrests fold their knees into a tight, constrictive bend. The hard, narrow seat is likened by some to a wooden plank. (In its defense, devoted sportbike owners argue that ‘you get used to it’, that wind-pressure at speed takes weight off your wrists, and that it’s possible to adjust your position on the bike to minimize discomfort. The muscles of the dental flagstaff torso can, and sometimes should, be used to keep the weight off the hands.)

The low windscreens found as original equipment (‘oem’) on most sportbikes is found wanting dental Virginia by those interested in touring, and even racers often add taller screens or ‘bubbles’ to provide more wind protection, suggesting that low-cut stock windscreens are more cosmetic than functional. The rider’s sleep apnea helmet is constantly buffeted by wind, and at high speeds it’s noisy enough for earplugs to be recommended.

Attached close to their narrow fairings, the rearview mirrors on most sportbikes display excellent sleep views of your shoulders and elbows, but not much of the traffic behind you. Sportbikes have less steering lock, making tight, low speed turns more difficult than they may be even on much larger machines with longer wheelbases. At ‘full lock’ (turned as far as possible), the bars on some sportbikes are nearly touching the gas tank, even pinching thumbs/fingers. Steering lock: The distance the handlebars and front wheel can be turned to the left or right before hitting the ‘stops’.

A sportbike has none of the protective ‘crash bars’ or bumpers found on many cruisers and touring machines, so if you drop it, even at low speed, you can easily do thousands of dollars of damage to the fairing, exhaust and other vulnerable parts. For this reason some owners (especially racers) attach ‘frame sliders’ and heavy-duty engine covers to minimize the damage from a minor spill.


One of the most dental assisting prescott popular and familiar styles of bikes today is the ‘cruiser’, which is easily recognizable by its low-slung
profile, lack of bodywork, raked out front wheel, feet-forward riding position, and often an abundance of chrome decoration.
They often embody a nostalgic theme, recalling an earlier era or evoking a ‘traditional’ image of North American originIntended for relaxed, mellow riding, they dental assistant lack the cornering clearance and suspension performance of other machines and will not tolerate the aggressive lean angles associated with high corner speeds. This is not an issue for their owners, who enjoy the laid-back attitude of their rides and have little interest in carrying speed through corners.

However, many cruisers are extremely powerful, with the late ‘90s and early 21st century giving rise dental assistant school to a series of ever-largerengines in these supposedly ‘easygoing’ motorcycles. Displacements in this category have crowded, and now even surpassed, the 2,000 cc mark, a size unheard of in performance-oriented’ models. These motorcycles are capable of hard dental coaching acceleration, particularly but not only when modified by their owners. They are easily powerful and fast enough to land the careless and unskilled in trouble.

A chief attraction of the cruiser is its low seat height. This permits shorter dental success riders to easily get their feet down on the ground, and also reassures new, inexperienced riders who are still learning to balance properly. The cruiser’s low centre of gravity (cg) makes it feel lighter and more manageable at low wealthy dentist speeds. The combination of long wheelbase and low cg allows cruiser/custom style motorcycles to accelerate harder with less tendency to ‘wheelie’ (raise the front wheel).

The handlebars usually reach up and back, while the Dental Assistant Denver footrests or floorboards are placed well forward, putting the rider in a reclining / upright riding position. Sometimes called the ‘sit up and beg’ position, cruiser fans consider it the most natural and comfortable position for riding on the road, and particularly the highway. It keeps the rider’s weight off the wrists and allows the legs to stretch out, exactly the opposite of the cramped ‘pretzel’ position one endures on some other machines. Owners of largerdental assisting cruisers often maintain that the extra inertia of their heavier machines gives them more stability on the highway, especially in windy conditions.


In a motorcycle accident, theDental Assisting Fullerton rider (and the passenger) is likely to be subjected to various types of trauma. Abrasions and impacts are the most common.

When a motorcyclist falls, or is struck by another Dental Assistant macomb vehicle, or slides into an object, impact or deceleration injuries are a likely result. These can cause everything from minor bruising to broken bones life-threatening internal bleeding and damage to vital organs. Impact injuries to the brain, heart, lungs, liver, and other internal organs are the main cause of death in motorcycle dental assistant accidents.

The other main type of injury is abrasion, which results from the rider sliding at speed along pavement. At low face contouring speeds, these injuries resemble burns, caused by friction of pavement against skin. At higher speeds, the skin be can be entirely worn away, along with underlying muscle, tendon, and even bone. Abrasion injuries can therefore range from small areas of painful dental assisting Little Rock ‘road rash’, to agonizing, gruesome, disfiguring damage, requiring skin grafts, reconstructive surgery and months of grueling physiotherapy. Infection is a frequent complication. Those who have experienced serious road rash or who have had close contact with a victim, are nearly always vociferous advocates of protective gear.

Motorcycle gear can provide dental assistant Maryland limited protection against impact injury, but if the rider’s body is subjected to violent deceleration by an impact with a car, curb, pole, guardrail, etc., grievous and possibly disabling or fatal injury is the likely result. High quality motorcycle apparel will only lessen the severity of injuries caused by relatively minor impacts. However, motorcycle gear can be highly effective at dental assistant warding off abrasion injury.

Like everything in life, motorcycling is a series of choices. On a warm day you’ll see the majority of motorcyclists on the road wearing no protective gear other than a helmet. That’s a personal dental assistant portland choice, just like choosing to ride a motorcycle. You should try to wear an approved helmet and eye protection when riding. Apart from that, what you wear – and how you ride – is largely up to you.

Every time you prepare to go for dental assisting Temecula a ride, you’ve got choices to make. Will you wear the gear? Or will you leave it at home, because it’s too warm, because you’re afraid people will look at you strangely, because it’s too much hassle? There are lots of reasons not to wear the gear, but when you examine them closely, they aren’t very convincing. The arguments FOR wearing the dental assistant torrance gear are simple and powerful: motorcyclists crash, even when they’re being careful and doing everything right; crashing with gear is bad; crashing without gear is much, much worse.

Our sincere advice to you is: wear the gear. Wear as much dental assisting Virginia as you have whenever you ride, even if it’s uncomfortable, and even if your friends tease you. No one knows when an accident will happen: if they did, they wouldn’t have it. It WILL happen when you DON’T expect it.


Hardly anything is more chino ffa crucial to safe riding than being able to see properly, and good eye protection makes this possible. If you have a full-face helmet, you have an integral visor to protect your eyes. If not, you must wear goggles or protective shatterproof lenses of some type to protect your eyes from flying objects and windblast. Tinted goggles or visors are great in daylight, but dangerous at night. If you are about to ride into a darkened area (tunnel, under bridge, etc) a tinted visor can be easily flipped up; sunglasses or tinted goggles cannot be so easily dental assisting removed.

Any visor or eyewear should be clean, free of excessive scratches and easy to see through in whatever conditions you plan to ride. Replace them frequently. Wet, cold and dark dental assistant program are conditions that will likely reveal problems with the eye protection you use. Some these issues will be examined in chapters dealing with riding in adverse conditions.

A few other things that are commonly overlooked are dental web design sun block, fluids, and race food. These are required to ensure that you can function comfortably for the duration of the event. They are frequently NOT provided by the race organizer.

There are other items the motorcycle computer driver and passenger may wish to use, but these are additional items of personal taste that go above and beyond what is required. The motorcycle driver and passenger should take what they feel is necessary to remain happy and comfortable during an eight hour bicycle race.

The bottom line is to dress in a prescott valley manner that:

• affords the most protection in the event of a mishap
• maximizes comfort to avoid the problems caused by fatigue
• maximize safety at all times.

The motorcyclist must present an furnace image of safety when in a position to be viewed by the public.


Motorcycle apparel should be made of either leather or motorcycle-grade textiles (cordura, Kevlar, Dyneema, etc). It must be of sturdy shade structure construction and fit properly. This is the only stuff between your skin and the giant, ultra coarse-grit belt-sander we call the road. It better be up to the task. Non-motorcycle garments made of cotton or other fabrics can’t give the protection you need. Abrasion will destroy them almost instantly in a slide across asphalt. They don’t fit the way gazebo motorcycle gear needs to in order to stay in position.

Real motorcycle gear isn’t all created equal, either. As with anything else, you tend to get what you pay for. High quality gear uses thicker, stronger leather in larger pieces. Cheap gear (and non-motorcycle leathers) is made of very thin leather that won’t survive gymnastics prescott valley slide, and the panels used to make the article may be small (economizing by using up a lot of scraps). The more pieces used to make a jacket or pants, the more seams there are, and the more likely one of those seams will tear
open. A high quality article has protected, reinforced stitching at critical points (like elbows, knees, seat, hips) – where you’re most likely to come in contact with the road.It has strong metal or plastic zippers that are covered by another layer of leather or textile to protect them and to seal out drafts.


A helmet is by far the most important piece of dental assistant protective gear when riding a motorcycle. In fact, the single most important factor in determining whether or not a motorcyclist survives an accident is whether or not he or she is wearing a helmet. Without a helmet, even a minor spill can be fatal. With a helmet, riders sometimes walk away from spectacular crashes.

There are still many dental assistant misconceptions and myths surrounding helmets, but the statistics and the science are very clear: helmets save lives: they prevent and reduce head injuries. There is no evidence that helmets dangerously restrict peripheral vision or that they increase the risk of neck injuries.

‘If I fall off at 110 kph,’ goes one old and remarkable line of ‘reasoning’, ‘a helmet isn’t going to help.’ Actually, it may very well save your dental assistant baton rouge life no matter how fast you’re going. It’s common for roadracers to crash at speeds well in excess of 200 kph, but because they wear full protective gear, including high quality full-face helmets, (and most importantly, because they crash at a racetrack and not on the street) they usually are not seriously injured.

The human head is able to withstand a small amount of deceleration or g-force impact from directly in front or behind; it’s more easily injured, however, by dental emergency impacts on either side, and this is often the kind of impact that motorcyclists’ heads are subjected to in a ‘gentle’ fall in a low-side spill.

Let’s say your monday morning bike slides out from under you in a turn while you’re going 40 kph. As you slide along the pavement, the side of your head glances off of it. If you’re wearing a helmet, you might not even notice the impact. The only evidence might be the scratches or chips you later find on the helmet. If you’re not wearing a helmet, that seemingly insignificant, glancing blow to the temple could have catastrophic consequences.


Any time you fall, you will extend your hands to protect yourself. So what protects your hands?

Your dental assistant hands are delicate, complex, and easily damaged. In even minor spills, hands and wrists can be seriously injured, particularly if they become trapped between pavement and the motorcycle. Injuries to the wrists and hands can be difficult to treat and slow to heal. Gloves are an absolute minimum of protection. They are not only meant to keep your hands warm when it’s cold, as many people seem to believe.Gloves must be made of quality leather, held together with strong stitching. The leather and stitching should be especially rugged on the palms and knuckles. Better quality gloves now have hard plastic or composite ‘armor’ and energy-absorbing materials strategically placed for protection against impacts.

While the foot care materials need to be strong enough to give protection, they must also be supple. Excessively thick or heavy leather is unsuitable because it will deprive the rider of dexterity and feel on the controls.

If they come off your hands during a crash, they can’t help you. It’s critical that the six figure gloves fit well and have a strap of some kind to secure them on your wrists. Better gloves often have two such straps. It’s not uncommon for new gloves to stain your hands when soaked with rain or sweat.

Gloves made with aniline dye hold their color better. For cold weather, insulated gloves are highly recommended. It’s often been suggested that thicker gloves make feeling the controls too difficult, but numb, frozen hands are much worse. In the wet and/or cold, a pair of XXL rubber kitchen gloves over your regular gloves can help a lot.


‘Armor’ built into vulnerable areas (again, the elbows, shoulders, chest, knees, shins) is a highly desirable feature in riding gear. These simple plastic and foam inserts can absorb impact forces that would otherwise cause severe contusions and even broken bones. As with other types of protection, it will only be effective if the gear fits properly and remains in position during a crash / slide. If you are using Draggin Jeans, Knox makes great under garment body amour for your knees.


The most important factor when choosing a helmet is proper fit. A helmet must fit snugly to give good protection. Unfortunately, many people purchase helmets that are too large for them. In an impact between a loose-fitting helmet and the road or other object, the head is still moving after the helmet has come to a stop. The head then slams to stop against the inside surface of the helmet, subjecting the brain to severe g-forces. This is exactly the same thing that happens to unrestrained passengers in a car crash, when they are thrown hard against the steering wheel or windshield. A properly fitted helmet works like a seatbelt. It also keeps the helmet in the proper position on the head, whereas a loose helmet can move prior to an impact and therefore fail to perform up to expectation.

When trying on a helmet, see how small a size you can fit into. If you can comfortably fit in a medium, try on a small. If you can comfortably fit in a small, try an extra small. (It’s often a challenge for women to find gear that fits them, and helmets are no exception. If an XXS is still not a snug fit, they may have to try child’s sizes.)

Leave the helmet on as long as possible in the shop before making a decision. Helmets that seem to fit snugly may after some time begin to reveal painful pressure points, especially at the top of the forehead or the sides of the head. Human heads come in a variety of shapes as well as sizes, and your head may fit better in some models than others (if the ShoeiTM doesn’t fit, try an AraiTM).

A helmet that fits will not move too easily on your head. When you grab the chin-bar and give it a tug from side to side, your head should go with it, and any movement of the helmet should pull the skin of your face/head with it. There should be no visible gaps between the temples, forehead and the interior of the helmet. A well-fitted full-face helmet will squeeze your cheeks and yes, maybe even make you look funny. That’s normal. Don’t go to a larger size just because the one you have on feels ‘weird’. Go to a larger size only if the smaller one hurts.

If you think a helmet is a good fit, do up the strap snugly and then reach around behind the helmet with both hands. Try to pull the helmet off your head. TRY HARD, even if it hurts a little. If the helmet is too loose it may be possible to remove it. It may also be possible for it to come off your head in a crash. The helmet should be worn low enough on your forehead that you can just see the upper edge of the opening above your eyes. If you can’t see this part of the helmet, you’re wearing it too far back on your head. It should stay in this position even when tugged or pulled.

Zippers, Closures

The neck of the jacket should close with a button or hook and loop material (note that the latter will all too likely grab and fray your helmet strap, doing considerable damage over time). The pants and jacket should be joined together by a zipper; otherwise they can come apart and admit drafts (and pavement).

Roadracing leathers are of a ‘one piece’ design that eliminates the major seam (and weak point) between jacket and pants, making them the most secure of all in a crash, but most street riders find them too inconvenient.


A note on materials: leather is still considered the best material for motorcycle gear, for several reasons. First, it has outstanding abrasion resistance. Motorcycle-grade leather (over 1mm thick; competition grade leather, 1.4mm – 1.7mm thick, is found mainly in 1-piece roadracing suits) will survive longer than any other material in a slide. The difference is remarkable: in one test, leather survived over 25 m. in a sustained 80 kph slide on pavement, while Cordura was worn through after 5 m. Denim by itself, incidentally, lasted just over 1 m.

There’s more: cotton (denim) has a high coefficient of friction or ‘cf’ on pavement. It grips the road and causes the hapless faller to tumble rather than slide. Tumbling is hard on the ‘pointy bits’, like knees, shoulders, elbows and wrists. Cordura, in contrast, has a low ‘cf’ and slides very well… almost too well. The faller in Cordura will slide a considerable distance and possibly into a car, curb, light standard or other hard object at higher speed than one wearing leather. The leather-clad rider has a medium cf, which is low enough to slide (rather than tumble), yet high enough to slow down in a shorter distance.


Proper footwear makes operating the motorcycle much easier, as well as safer. And in this respect, nothing works as well as real motorcycle boots. Other types of footwear fall short in a variety of ways. Running shoes may give decent grip on the pegs and the road, but they provide too little protection, and their laces present a snagging hazard. They usually don’t cover the ankle, and even if they do, they aren’t designed to survive abrasion.

Construction / work boots may give good protection, but if they have a steel toe, it’s harder to feel what you’re doing with the shift lever. Again, laces may hang up. Cowboy boots may give good protection, if they stay on, but their leather soles have very poor grip on footrests and pavement, especially in rain. Your feet may slip off the pegs, and when you put your foot down at a stop it may slide out from under you, causing the bike to topple. Heavy hiking boots, as well as having overly thick soles which give poor feel, are… too heavy.

Chain and sprockets, Shaft Drives, Belts

Tip: Lube your chain after each ride when the chain is warm so the oil can easily soak in and get into all the tight spots of the chain.

These items that are essential to the well being of your bike. If not well maintained you will end up spending a lot of money all too often to have them replaced.

Chains: Lubricate them often with a commercial chain spray everytime you fill up for gas. (or at the end of each ride). Spray liberally on the side of the chain that comes into contact with the sprockets. Ensure that you spray both left and the right hand side of the chain. Position a piece of newspaper so that you do not dirty the rear wheel rim as you spray. Use a second piece on the floor to catch any drips. Wait five or ten minutes before you wipe all excess oil off the chain. This whole process is a lot easier if your motorbike has a centre stand. Spinning the back tyre will ensure that the rest of the chain is lubricated when it comes into contact with the sprocket and pinion. This is a task that is best done when you return home from your ride while the chain is still warm.

Bike chains are never taut but must be able to sag between 3/4" to 1 1/4" at the mid-point between the two sprockets. The sag is used when the bike suspension moves up and down over uneven surfaces.

Shaft Drives: Even though shaft drives on motorcycles require little maintenance we would suggest replacing the shaft drive oil every time you change the oil on your motorcycle. This will lead to a very long and happy life for the shaft drive.

Belt Drives: As with shaft drives, belts do not require a lot of maintenance. Everytime you change the oil on your motorcycle check the belt tension and adjust if necessary. Make sure your belt is always clean.


Tip: Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and becomes less effective. Replace brake fluid every one to two years and your brakes will preform the best they can.

Motorcycles have up to two brake fluid reservoirs, one for the front, usually found on the handlebars and one for the back. Both should be checked regularly. Topping up should only be done from a new, sealed bottle as brake fluid tends to absorb moisture over time. If your brake pads are thin and due for replacement. Beware - brake fluid, if spilt on paintwork eats right through to the bare metal.

Also check the thickness of the brake pads. If you allow them to go right down to the metal your brake disc will be damaged resulting in an unnecessary and expensive replacement. Fitting braided steel brake lines will increase the performance of your brakes by roughly 50%

Kick the Tires.

If the weight was off your motorcycle’s wheels during storage, chances are your tires are in good shape, but you still should inspect them thoroughly before riding. Check for cracks, bulges, punctures, stress marks or flat spots. Using a tire pressure gauge, check air pressure in both tires to ensure they’re properly inflated. If needed, refill your tires to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure. Inspect the wheels for dents and carefully tighten any loose spokes. Grease the wheel bearings.

Take a Look at the Electrical System.

Check your electronics, switches, lights and gauges for proper operation. Test your regular and high-beam headlamps, and front and rear turn signals. Test your rear brake light and ensure it lights up when you engage the brakes. Test the horn to ensure it’s working.

Your Insurance Policy.

Make sure your insurance policy is up to date. If you’ve added any custom parts or equipment, you’ll want to be sure they’re covered.





Home | Rider Education | Become a Member | Forum | Events | Contact Us
Copyright © Valley ABATE &
Web Design by Consys
All Rights Reserved